Introduction

Ayutthaya, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is a must-see one-day excursion from Bangkok if you're planning to spend three or more days in the city. Established in 1350, the Ayutthaya Kingdom flourished as a major center of global diplomacy and commerce until its fall in 1767. This ancient city is renowned for its stunning Buddhist temples. After the Angkor complex, is one of my favorite historical sites in Southeast Asia.

Our guide is designed to help you make the most of your day in Ayutthaya, covering all the essential sights and providing you with insights into the rich history and cultural significance of this remarkable destination.

Getting There

There are several paid organized tours to Ayutthaya from Bangkok, but organizing your visit independently can offer a more personalized and enjoyable experience. Traveling at your own pace allows you to spend more time at the places that interest you the most and make better stops for meals and coffee breaks. While some tour guides may sometimes provide some good explanations, many are not as knowledgeable as they claim to be, sometimes even making up facts. By doing a bit of research or just following our guide, you can ensure a richer and more fulfilling visit, tailored to your preferences and interests.

While we recommend spending more than one day in Ayutthaya to fully enjoy a leisurely visit and see the sights illuminated at night, realistically, most tourists do it as a day trip from Bangkok. With so much to see in Thailand, it can be challenging to manage your time. Our itinerary allows you to see most of the significant sites at a reasonable pace, as long as you start early. The Ayutthaya Historical Park is open from 8 AM to 6 PM daily, so plan to arrive no later than 8:30 AM. This way you will beat some of the crowds and minimize the exposure the hottest part of the day.

Here are three options to get to Ayutthaya (train times, costos and exchange rate as of the date of this blog, please check for changes)

1. Grab (Ride-Hailing Service):

   • Travel Time: Approximately 1-1.5 hours, depending on traffic.

   • Cost: Around 1,000-1,500 Baht ($30-$40).

   • Convenience: Book a ride from your hotel directly to Ayutthaya. This is the fastest and most comfortable option if you are willing to pay more.

2. Train:

   • Departure Station: Bang Sue Station

   • Travel Time: About 1.5 hours plus travel time to the train station.

   • Best Option: Take the 7:10 AM or 7:30 AM rapid trains to arrive around 8:30 AM.

   • Cost: 15-350 Baht ($1-$20), depending on the class.

   • Convenience: Trains are frequent and inexpensive. Bang Sue Station is a convenient short walk from the Bang Sue Metro Station.

3. Minivan:

   • Departure Point: Mo Chit Northern Bus Terminal.

   • Travel Time: About 1-1.5 hours depending on traffic plus travel time to the terminal.

   • Cost: Approximately 150 Baht ($4).

   • Convenience: Minivans leave frequently and somewhat faster than trains but might be less comfortable. No convenient mass transit option to Mo Chit Northern Bus Terminal. Arrive at Mo Chit Bus Terminal by 7 AM to catch an early minivan.

Preferred Method: Grab to Ayutthaya, Train Back

Morning Grab trip

My preferred method is to go to Ayutthaya by Grab and return by train. This way, you can leave directly from your hotel, saving a trip to the train or bus terminal. Overall, you most likely end up with a one hour trip to Ayutthaya than a total two hours or more trip. The train ride back is very enjoyable; you can buy tickets at the Ayutthaya train station for economy class in the afternoon. It's a lovely chance to see the countryside and a great way to mingle with locals. Economy class has no AC, but it is breezy with the windows open, allowing for better pictures.

The only issue might be finding a Grab driver willing to take you there without a return trip. Keep trying, but be open to negotiating with the driver for a two-way trip if necessary.

Also, take into account that the Mo Chit Northern Bus station doesn’t have a good connection to the BTS (There is a Mo Chit BTS station but it is a 30 minute walk, 10 to 15 minutes car taxi or 5 minutes motorcycle taxi to the Bus Station). There might be a way to get to the terminal by bus, but I find the bus routes in Bangkok inescrutable for the international traveler.

Train Back to Bangkok

• Departure Time: There is an express train at 3:35 pm and a rapid train that leaves around 3:55 pm, giving you plenty of time to explore.

• Experience: The scenic journey back to Bangkok offers beautiful countryside views and a chance to relax after a day of exploration.

By following this method, you can enjoy the convenience of a direct ride to Ayutthaya and the charm of a train journey back to Bangkok.

Transportation in Ayutthaya

The most effective and scenic way to move around Ayutthaya for the day is to hire a tuk-tuk. Tuk-tuks are readily available at the bus and train terminals, and they offer a great opportunity for pictures and filming as the rides between sites are relatively short. While most tuk-tuk drivers are honest, they often offer a limited tour covering only three or four temples that are convenient for them.

For a full day, expect to pay around 1,000 Baht ($27) for a tuk-tuk. To ensure you visit all the sites you want, print the names of the temples from this guide and make sure the driver knows your expectations beforehand. Alternatively, you can hire a tuk-tuk in advance from a recommended driver. I have used Tuk Tuk Joy in the past and found the service reasonable and reliable (this recommendation is for your convenience only, and I receive no referral fee).

There are bicycles for hire, but it would be impossible to cover this itinerary by bike. The hot and humid weather in Ayutthaya will crush even the fittest bicycle rider. I do not recommend this option.

Ayutthaya Temple Pass

When visiting Ayutthaya, you can buy individual tickets for each temple or purchase a more economical temple pass. The pass costs 220 Baht (approximately $7 USD) and gives you access to six major temples: Wat Phra Mahathat, Wat Ratchaburana, Wat Phra Ram, Wat Phra Si Sanphet, Wat Chai Watthanaram, and Wat Maheyong. If you plan on visiting at many temples, the pass is the better deal​ and you don’t have to stop in each place to acquire a ticket.

Other Considerations

The weather in Ayutthaya is for the most part hot and humid, and in most temples there is limited shade. Wear comfortable clothes and shoes, apply plenty of sunscreen, wear a hat, and make sure you stay hydrated.

There is not an strict dress code like in the temples of Bangkok. Men wear shorts and I have seen women in sundresses. These are religious sites and common courtesy indicates not to dress provocatively and show respect.

Itinerary

We have planned an itinerary to make your trip more efficient. The itinerary begins at the train station, allowing for a stop to rest in a place with AC and plenty of time for lunch.

Here is a link to the itinerary on Google Maps.

Wat Yai Chai Mongkon

Originally built in 1357, massively restored since then.

The main chedi at Wat Yai Chai Mongkon is characterized by its bell shape, a distinguishing feature of the Ayutthaya architectural style derived from the earlier Sukhothai style but larger and more imposing. You can climb part of the main chedi for panoramic views of the surrounding area. The site offers excellent opportunities for photography, including rows of Buddha statues, a large Buddha sitting with the hand touching the earth posture, a reclining Buddha, and the towering chedi.

Wat Suwandaram

The temple was originally built around the late 17th century. It was destroyed by the Burmese and later restored by King Rama I in the late 18th century.

Proceed to this temple to admire the beautiful paintings, especially in the morning light. The ubosot (ordination hall) is uniquely shaped like a boat, which is a distinct architectural feature. The main attraction of this site is the murals inside the ubosot, which depict scenes from the life of Buddha. These murals were highly regarded and served as prototypes for mural painters across Thailand during the reign of King Rama III​

Wat Mahathat

Built during the early Ayutthaya period between 1374 and the mid-1380s. Currently in a low state of preservation.

Wat Mahathat is one of the largest sites we will visit today, notable for its historical and architectural significance. Key highlights include:

• Buddha's Head in Tree Roots: This is one of the most iconic and photographed spots in all of Ayutthaya. Over the years, the roots of a Bodhi tree have grown around a stone Buddha head, creating a powerful symbol of the enduring nature of Buddhism amidst destruction and the passage of time. When taking pictures here be respectful, if you appear in the picture make sure your feet do not face the image of the Buddha.

• Central Prang: Originally towering at around 165 feet, the now destroyed central prang was one of the grandest structures of its time. It was constructed in the late 14th century and is surrounded by four subsidiary prangs. This five-prang arrangement, with a tall central tower surrounded by four smaller prangs, was pioneered by the Khmer and is a significant feature of Ayutthaya's architectural style.

Coffee or Cold Drink Break at Cafe Sanoh

After visiting Wat Mahathat, it's a great idea to incorporate a break at Cafe Sanoh. Before exiting the complex of Wat Mahathat, look for this small but well-appointed cafe. You can sit inside in the air-conditioned room or outside in the shade. This is an excellent opportunity to take a break from the heat, rest, and hydrate. The cafe offers a variety of smoothies, hot and cold coffees, flavored drinks, and sodas.

Wat Ratchaburana

Built in 1424 by King Borommarachathirat II to commemorate his brothers who died in a duel over the throne.

Wat Ratchaburana is another highlight on our tour, featuring a magnificent prang chedi with a corn-cob shape, characteristic of the Khmer architectural style. The repetitive patterns, pointed niches, and decorative motifs are inspired by Angkorian designs. Key highlights include:

• Prang Chedi: Note the standing Buddhas, winged figures (kinnaras), serpents (nagas), and the detailed ornamentation of the prang.

• Four Bell-Shaped Stupas: These stupas sit on the terrace that supports the prang chedi, adding to the architectural grandeur of the site.

• Crypt: The prang houses some of the oldest paintings in Thailand in its crypt. However, during my trips to Ayutthaya, the entrance to the crypt has always been closed.

Wat Ratchaburana's architectural details and historical significance make it a must-visit site, showcasing the influence of Khmer designs on Ayutthaya's religious structures.

Lunch Break at I View Wat

After visiting Wat Ratchaburana, it's time for lunch at the excellent Thai restaurant I View Wat, conveniently located nearby. I View Wat offers a good selection of Thai dishes with indoor and outdoor seating. Enjoy delicious food and great service, with a good selection of lighter fare like green papaya salad and satays. This is also a great moment to enjoy a cold Leo or Singha beer and rest before continuing the tour in the afternoon.

Wat Phra Sri Sanphet

Built in 1448 by King Borommatrailokkanat, restored multiple times over the years.

Wat Phra Sri Sanphet is one of the most important temples in Ayutthaya, featuring significant architectural and historical highlights:

• Bell-shaped Stupas (Anda): The most eye-catching feature of Wat Phra Si Sanphet is its three bell-shaped stupas. This specific bell shape is characteristic of the late Ayutthaya period. The rounded base, known as the "anda" in architectural terms, exemplifies the region's unique adaptation of the classic stupa design, showcasing the syncretism between the Sri Lankan Buddhist architectural style and the local Thai styles.

• No Monastic Community: Unlike many other temples, Wat Phra Sri Sanphet did not house a community of monks. It was exclusively used for royal ceremonies, making it unique in its religious function.

• Relics and Images: The chedis were built to house the ashes of Ayutthayan kings and other relics, making them highly significant in Buddhist practice.

• Model for Wat Phra Kaew: The temple's design (destroyed by the Burmese armies in 1767) served as a model for Wat Phra Kaew (Emerald Buddha) in Bangkok, the most sacred temple in modern Thailand​.

Wat Na Phra Men

Originally constructed in the late Ayutthaya period, the main hall (ubosot) dates from 1629-1656 and has remained well-preserved, as it was not destroyed by Burmese invaders.

This is a functioning temple and you will see Buddhist monks, and it is a good opportunity to receive a blessing if you so wish.

Move on to this temple to view the well-preserved main hall and the distinct Buddha statue adorned in royal attire. Key highlights include:

• Ubosot (Main Hall): One of the best-preserved structures in Ayutthaya, it stands as an example of the architectural grandeur of the period. Look for the intricate carvings and ornate decorations that adorn the building.

• Crowned Buddha in Bhumisparsa Posture: Inside the ubosot, you will find a unique Buddha statue dressed in royal attire, including a crown. This is unusual and highly significant, as it represents the Buddha as a king. Likely dates from 1629-1656.

• Viharn (Assembly Hall): Inside the viharn, one is immediately captivated by the stunning Dvaravati period statue known as Phra Kanthararat. This significant artifact dates from 707-757 and showcases a distinctively different aesthetic from the more familiar Thai Buddha images. The statue exudes a Greek-inspired Gandharan style, characterized by its realistic and detailed depictions, giving it a classical grace reminiscent of ancient Greek and Roman sculptures.

This temple is not part of the temple pass but the entrance fee is nominal.

Wat Chai Watthanaram

Built in 1630 by King Prasat Thong, the temple was later restored multiple times.

Our last stop, Wat Chai Watthanaram, fittingly marks the end of our journey through Ayutthaya with a temple that witnessed the kingdom's downfall in 1767. Key highlights include:

• Central Prang: Dominating the complex, the central prang symbolizes Mount Meru, the abode of the gods in Hindu cosmology. Its intricate design and detailed stucco work are reminiscent of Khmer architecture.

• Octagonal 'Men' Towers: Unique to this temple, these towers might represent the mountain ranges surrounding Mount Meru, emphasizing the temple's representation of the universe and the encompassing nature of spirituality.

• Corner Prangs: The four smaller prangs at each corner represent the four winds, showcasing the Ayutthaya style that combines elements from various traditions.

• Gallery of Buddha Images: Surrounding the central prang is a gallery adorned with Buddha images, reflecting the complex's deep religious significance.

• Chedi and Viharn: These structures were integral places of worship, showcasing the architectural style of the Ayutthaya period.

• Wall Murals: Though faded over time, remnants of intricate wall murals depict various Jataka tales and scenes from the life of Buddha.

The layout of Wat Chai Watthanaram represents Buddhist cosmology, with the central prang symbolizing Mount Meru and the surrounding moat representing the cosmic ocean. Commissioned by King Prasat Thong in the 17th century, it is believed to honor his mother. The temple witnessed the decline of the Ayutthaya Kingdom during the Burmese invasion in 1767, leaving many statues beheaded and the complex severely damaged.

Return to Bangkok by Train

As we mentioned earlier, our recommendation is to take the train back to Bangkok. If you don't have another opportunity to take a train in Thailand, this is your chance. It is quite an experience, particularly in economy class. When taking trains in Thailand I always end up making friends. People will often ask where you are from and start engaging in conversations.

Responsible Tourism

While exploring Ayutthaya and other parts of Thailand, you might encounter businesses offering elephant rides. Please be mindful that elephants are not domestic animals, and the training required to allow them to be ridden safely involves inhumane treatment. Furthermore, an elephant's spine is not designed to support the weight of people. These elephants are frequently ridden non-stop for hours, causing long-term injuries and significant suffering.

Sources

If you want to delve deeper into the architecture, history, and Buddhist significance of Ayutthaya and other temples in Thailand, an excellent resource is "Thailand: Guide to the Temples of Sukhothai, Ayutthaya, and Bangkok" by David Raezer and Jennifer Raezer from Approach Guides. This guide offers a comprehensive look into the rich cultural heritage of Thailand's temples.