Ribeira Sacra Galicia
Introduction
The Ribeira Sacra is one of the most captivating destinations in Galicia, a place where history, culture, and breathtaking landscapes come together. On this one-day tour, you’ll have the chance to discover its impressive Romanesque churches, take in the majestic views of the Miño River from scenic viewpoints that will leave you speechless, and explore the charming town of Monforte de Lemos, with its historic center, climb to the castle, and sublime Galician cuisine.
This journey invites you to connect with nature while exploring centuries-old heritage in a setting of unparalleled beauty. Ribeira Sacra is the perfect destination for those seeking a blend of tranquility, culture, and nature.
Embarcadero de Belesar
When is the best time to visit the Ribeira Sacra?
Summer (June to August):
During the summer, the Ribeira Sacra transforms into an ideal destination to enjoy its natural landscapes and outdoor activities like hiking or boat rides along the Miño River. Temperatures typically range between 25°C and 30°C, making it a warm season, perfect for enjoying the viewpoints and canyons. However, like other regions in Galicia, tourism increases, so you may encounter more visitors at popular spots.
Spring and Autumn (April, May, and September):
If you prefer a more relaxed and less crowded atmosphere, spring and autumn are the ideal seasons. Temperatures are milder, ranging between 15°C and 20°C, and although rain can be more frequent, the experience is much calmer and more authentic. We recommend these times if you enjoy the contrast between the lush green landscapes and the peacefulness of nature. In spring, the vineyards and local vegetation are at their peak.
Rest of the year:
During the winter months, temperatures can drop to around 5°C or 10°C, and the likelihood of rain increases significantly, making hiking more challenging. However, if you don’t mind colder weather and seek a different experience, this time of year offers a quieter, more authentic Ribeira Sacra, perfect for those looking to escape mass tourism.
The itinerary
Our base for exploring this area of Galicia was the beautiful walled city of Lugo, which allowed us to plan a north-south route through the Ribeira Sacra. From Lugo, it’s easy to delve into this region of spectacular landscapes and rich cultural heritage. However, if you prefer to spend more time in the heart of the Ribeira Sacra, an excellent option is to stay in Monforte de Lemos. From there, you could take a circuit route, optimizing your time to visit more sites without the need to return to your starting point.
Another fascinating alternative is staying at the Parador de Santo Estevo, an ancient monastery converted into a luxury hotel, located in the heart of the Ribeira Sacra. This parador is one of the most notable stops on this itinerary and will allow you to enjoy a unique stay, surrounded by history and nature, while exploring the most charming corners of the area.
Santa María de Pesqueiras
Our first stop was the church of Santa María de Pesqueiras, located in the Chantada region. This Romanesque church can only be reached on foot. There is a path marked on Google Maps as “Paseo a Igrexa de Santa María das Pesqueiras.” Another trail begins at a place listed as Casa das Xacias on Google Maps, which was our choice. However, this latter path is not well-marked, and although the journey is beautiful, surrounded by trees and vineyards with views of the Miño River, we arrived at the church more by luck than by guidance.
The church, declared a Historic-Artistic Monument in 1980, was inhabited by nuns of the Benedictine order until the early 16th century. There are no clear records of its exact foundation date, but it is known to have been annexed to San Paio de Abeleda until the late 15th century. In a deed from 1290, it is mentioned that the prioress Elvira Ares acquired the patronage for four maravedís. There is also an inscription dating back to 1121, which indicates that the temple was restored by Juan Mateu (according to information on a sign next to the church).
The exterior of the church of Santa María de Pesqueiras has the charm of the delicate simplicity typical of Romanesque style. On the main façade, two arches housing bells stand out, crowned by a small stone cross, giving the building a solemn and sober air. The structure, with its weathered stone partially covered by vegetation and the silence broken only by birdsong, makes this a very special place. Also noteworthy is the side entrance, a fine example of Romanesque ornamentation. The door is framed by two robust columns supporting a set of ornamental arches. These arches feature intricate decoration with vegetal and geometric motifs carved into the stone, typical of the Romanesque style.
Inside, you can find 16th-century paintings depicting scenes of the Annunciation, the Resurrection, and the Last Judgment. These works, of great artistic and historical value, have recently been restored and are only accessible if you visit the church on a guided tour.
Santa Maria das Pesqueiras
Romanesque Church of Santo Estevo de Ribas de Miño
Our next stop is the Romanesque church of Santo Estevo de Ribas de Miño. To reach this site, we drove through spectacular landscapes, including views of the Belesar reservoir and the terraced slopes covered with beautiful vineyards.
This church, built in the 12th century from local marble, is considered a gem of Galician Romanesque architecture. Its main façade features a magnificent rose window, regarded as one of the finest in Galicia, adorned with sixteen small arches. The richly decorated arched doorway is framed with archivolts and figures depicting musicians and other characters holding a solar disc. The decorative richness extends to the cornice, adorned with human and animal heads that encircle the church’s semicircular apse.
Santo Estevo de Ribas de Miño.
Santo Estevo Ribas de Miño. Detail.
On the main portal, in addition to the imposing rose window and beautifully decorated archivolts, the carved figures on the capitals stand out. A particularly interesting detail (see photo on the right) is the depiction of two creatures, which can be interpreted as birds biting each other. According to Romanesque symbolism, birds represent the human soul, and when they are shown biting their own legs, they symbolize the soul's struggle to free itself from earthly bonds. The legs, which anchor the bird to the earth, represent the connection to the material world—a tie that must be broken for the soul to ascend toward God. In some versions of this motif, each bird bites its own legs, while in others, as might be the case here, each one bites the legs of the other, reinforcing the idea of spiritual struggle.
Playa da Cova
The drive along the Miño River to Playa da Cova is one of the most beautiful routes of the trajectory. The picturesque villages, hillside houses, and terraced vineyards create a unique landscape that invites you to savor it slowly, much like the Mencía wine produced in these fertile lands. Be sure to follow road 5819, which winds along the riverbank—the beauty of the journey more than makes up for every winding curve.
Playa da Cova is a charming bay on the Miño River, a peaceful spot perfect for admiring nature. On the shore, you'll find a spectacular bench where you can sit and take in the view. During the season, you can also rent kayaks and paddleboards, although they weren’t available during our visit in the mid-season. The area also boasts a lovely restaurant and café, making it an ideal stop on the journey. For us, it was the perfect place to enjoy a delicious espresso, which gave us the energy needed to continue with our tour.
The bench at Playa da Cova
Church of San Martiño de A Cova
The Church of San Martiño de A Cova is a true gem for photography enthusiasts, offering a picture-perfect scene of a Romanesque church with the majestic Miño River as a backdrop. This church was once a monastery for the Canons Regular of St. Augustine between the 13th and 14th centuries, adding a layer of history and mystique to the site.
The main façade is marked by its simple doorway with a semicircular arch, typical of Romanesque architecture. However, the real spectacle is the view from the back of the church: the humble bell tower rises above the Miño River, which winds its way below, and the terraced slopes add a unique charm to the landscape. A must-see stop on the Ribeira Sacra route.
San Martiño de A Cova church
Mirador do Cabo do Mundo
The Mirador do Cabo do Mundo is one of the most iconic viewpoints in the Ribeira Sacra, offering a spectacular view of the famous meander formed by the Miño River. From this spot, you can admire the beauty of the terraced vineyard-covered slopes, characteristic of the region’s winemaking. The river’s curves and the mountainous landscape create a unique panorama, considered one of the most impressive along this route.
The viewpoint is accessible via a winding road. From where you park, a short walk will take you to the lookout, where you can take in the sight of the Miño winding its way through the vineyards and the villages that dot the hills.
View from Mirador Cabo do Mundo
Mirador de la Presa de San Estevo
The Mirador de la Presa de San Estevo offers breathtaking views over the reservoir and canyon, one of the most spectacular landscapes in the Ribeira Sacra. From this vantage point, you can observe how the reservoir blends into the canyon, surrounded by steep slopes and terraced vineyards that stretch into the horizon.
The San Estevo Dam, constructed between 1945 and 1956, is a key hydraulic engineering project in Galicia. Its primary function is the generation of hydroelectric power, harnessing the strength of the Miño River.
Monastery of Santo Estevo de Ribas de Sil
History of the Monastery
The Monastery of Santo Estevo de Ribas de Sil is one of the most important monastic complexes in the Ribeira Sacra. Its origins date back to the 6th century, but it reached its peak between the 9th and 12th centuries when it was home to the nine holy bishops. These prelates, having retired from their dioceses, found this location to be an ideal place for meditation and monastic life. From the 13th century onward, the monastery became an important center for administering the surrounding territories, managing vineyards, trade routes, and fishing rights. In the 16th century, after a fire in 1562, the monastery was restored in Renaissance style and became an Arts College.
The Romanesque Church
The exterior of the monastery’s church, consecrated in the 12th century, is one of the finest examples of Galician Romanesque architecture. Its main façade features a rose window and a recessed portal with semicircular arches, typical of this style. Inside, the church follows a basilica layout with three naves and three semicircular apses. The apses are Romanesque, while the Gothic supports that flank them date from the 16th century, the result of later restorations. The Gothic ribbed vaults covering the main nave add a more modern touch to the structure.
Monasterio de Santo Estevo de Ribas de Sil
The Cloisters
The monastery has three main cloisters, each with its own unique style and function:
Claustro dos Bispos: This is the oldest cloister, built in 1220 to honor the memory of the nine holy bishops who lived in the monastery. The lower level is Romanesque, with arcades supported by twin columns featuring decorated capitals. The upper level is Gothic, with twin windows in pointed arches adorned with intricate tracery.
Claustro dos Cabaleiros: This large Renaissance cloister, built in the 16th century, was used to host noble visitors to the monastery. Its three-tiered design and harmonious proportions make it one of the most impressive cloisters in Galicia. The lower level consists of semicircular arches supported by Doric columns, while the upper levels are adorned with Renaissance architectural details.
Claustro do Viveiro: Also in Renaissance style, this cloister served as a fishery for the monks. It once contained a large fountain where species like salmon, shad, eels, and lampreys—brought from the Sil and Miño rivers—were raised and kept alive. This ensured the monastery had a constant supply of fresh fish.
Parador de Santo Estevo
Today, the Monastery of Santo Estevo has been transformed into a hotel within the Paradores de Turismo de España chain. This parador combines historic architectural beauty with modern comforts, allowing visitors to enjoy a unique stay in a monastic setting filled with history and surrounded by nature. Guests can enjoy the tranquility of the cloisters, the views over the Sil canyons, and the splendor of a building that has been carefully restored to preserve its original character while adapting to contemporary tourism needs.
As fans of paradores, this one is definitely on our list for a future stay.
Monforte de Lemos
Ponte Vella and Nosa Señora da Antiga
We began our visit to Monforte de Lemos by crossing the Ponte Vella, a medieval bridge over the Cabe River dating back to the 16th century. From here, you can enjoy a magnificent view of the college church of Nosa Señora da Antiga, also known as the “Galician Escorial” due to its resemblance to the famous monastery in Madrid. This Renaissance building is one of Monforte’s architectural gems, housing an impressive altarpiece and valuable works of art.
View from Ponte Vella bridge
Walk to the Castle of Monforte
From the Ponte Vella, we climbed the picturesque streets leading to the Castle of Monforte de Lemos, passing by the Church of Santa María de Regoa and through the Porta de Alcazaba. This gate is one of the few remaining entrances from what was once the city's medieval wall. Along the way, we also passed through what used to be the Jewish quarter of Monforte.
Monforte de Lemos' Jewish quarter, like others in Galicia, was established during the Middle Ages. The Jewish community in Monforte played an important role in the local economy, primarily engaged in professions like medicine, trade, and craftsmanship. Although the expulsion of the Jews in 1492 marked the end of the community, traces of their presence can still be felt in certain streets and buildings in the city, especially near the Porta de Alcazaba, which was once a key entry point to this part of the old town.
Monastery of San Vicente do Pino
Our next stop was the Monastery of San Vicente do Pino, situated atop a hill overlooking the city. This ancient Benedictine monastery, dating back to the 9th century, is now a hotel in the Paradores chain, offering privileged views of Monforte and the valley surrounding it.
Dinner at Restaurante O Grelo
We ended the day with a spectacular dinner at the renowned Restaurante O Grelo, one of the best in the city. Our recommendation for dining in Monforte, the menu featured traditional Galician dishes such as confit cod and beef tenderloin—a true showcase of the region's rich gastronomy.
Conclusion
We hope you enjoyed our blog and that it helps you plan a trip to Galicia. The Ribeira Sacra and Monforte de Lemos offer a unique combination of history, nature, and gastronomy that we are sure you will enjoy as much as we did. You can check out our video on YouTube if you’d like to follow this guide in audiovisual form.
Feel free to leave a comment or question if you have any doubts or need more recommendations for your trip. We love hearing from our readers and helping you plan unforgettable experiences. As always, happy travels!
