A Coruña and Costa da Morte

Introduction

In this post, I’m inviting you on a one-day road trip from Santiago de Compostela to explore A Coruña and Costa da Morte. If you’re using Santiago as a base to discover northern Galicia, this itinerary will give you a glimpse of the best this stunning region has to offer: from one of its most vibrant cities to coastal areas dotted with charming villages, dramatic cliffs, and endless views of the Atlantic, where different shades of blue unfold at each stop. It’ll be a day filled with breathtaking landscapes, history, and Galician culture at its finest. You can follow our route on Google Maps.

Itinerary

A Coruña

A Coruña is a city that perfectly blends the old with the new. Known as the "City of Glass" for its glazed balconies in the Marina district, A Coruña greets you with an Atlantic breeze and a seemingly endless seaside promenade. Here, you’ll find the Tower of Hercules, the oldest functioning Roman lighthouse in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage site. It’s a city that invites you to explore on foot and simply get lost in its charm.

Costa da Morte

Costa da Morte is famous for its wild beauty and mystical atmosphere, with steep cliffs, secluded beaches, and small fishing villages that seem frozen in time. Its name, which translates to “Coast of Death,” comes from the treacherous waters that once caused numerous shipwrecks. However, today its unique landscapes and authenticity draw visitors. At every stop along the coast, the shades of blue change with the light of day, from the deep blue at the Punta Nariga Lighthouse to the bright turquoise in sheltered beaches. From this area, once considered the edge of the known world by the Romans, to the charming villages of Laxe and Camariñas, this coast showcases a side of Galicia that is as beautiful as it is untamed.

When is the best time to visit Costa da Morte?

Summer (June to August): During summer, Costa da Morte becomes an attractive destination for enjoying its stunning landscapes and beaches. The average temperatures range from 20°C to 25°C, creating an ideal climate for outdoor exploration. However, this season also draws many visitors, both locals and tourists, meaning that the usually tranquil and authentic coastal villages may lose some of their charm due to the influx of tourists. Additionally, it’s common to encounter wait times at restaurants and higher prices.

Spring and Autumn (April, May, and September): If you’re looking for a quieter, more authentic experience, consider visiting Costa da Morte in spring or autumn. The temperatures are slightly cooler, between 15°C and 20°C, and while there’s a higher chance of rain, the lower tourist numbers will allow you to enjoy the region at a more relaxed pace. We made this trip in late April and experienced a day of variable weather, something very common in Galicia, where you can encounter everything from downpours to bright sunshine within a matter of hours. We started with a persistent drizzle at the Tower of Hercules, followed by sunshine along the promenade, more rain during the drive, and ended with clear skies to enjoy the Atlantic views. We considered ourselves lucky to have seen so many shades in a single day and to have good weather for the Costa da Morte vistas.

Rest of the year: In winter, temperatures drop and rain becomes more frequent, and the cloudy skies may not always allow you to fully appreciate the natural beauty of Costa da Morte. However, if you don’t mind the weather and are looking for a more authentic and less touristy experience, this can be a great option. During these months, the coastal villages, which are primarily focused on the sea and fishing, continue their hard work despite the harsh conditions. You’ll see fishermen braving the Atlantic with the same determination as ever, reminding us of the deep connection between the people and their environment. And while the streets may be emptier of tourists, the cafés fill with locals who are used to facing whatever nature throws their way, offering a warm welcome to those determined to discover Costa da Morte in its most authentic state.

A Coruña

Introduction

A Coruña, located on the northwest coast of Galicia, is the second most populous city in the region after Vigo and has been an important center since its founding by the Romans in the 1st century BC. Thanks to its natural harbor, A Coruña quickly became a strategic point for trade and navigation, playing a key role in Spain’s naval history. Over the centuries, it has witnessed crucial moments, such as the defense against the English Armada in 1589, led by the local heroine María Pita. Today, A Coruña remains an economic and cultural pillar of Galicia, blending its rich history with a vibrant modern life that attracts both residents and visitors alike.

How did we get there?

From Santiago de Compostela, we took the E1 highway, known as the "Autostrada do Atlántico," a drive that takes just under an hour.

Tower of Hercules

Our first destination was the iconic Tower of Hercules, a must-see stop in A Coruña. There is a large parking area at the base of the hill where the tower is located, making the visit convenient. It’s important to note that you’ll need to purchase tickets to access the tower, which cost around €3 for adults, with discounts available for students, seniors, and groups, and free entry for children under 14. You can buy the tickets online or at the office next to the parking lot; they are not sold at the tower itself, so avoid the climb without having purchased them first. The tickets are timed. We had no issues getting them on-site, but we visited during the mid-season.

Tower of Hercules

The Tower of Hercules, standing at 55 meters tall, is the only fully preserved Roman lighthouse still in use for maritime signaling. It is a testament to the advanced navigation systems of antiquity and the importance of the Atlantic route in Western Europe. Built in the 1st century AD, the tower underwent exemplary restoration in the 18th century in a neoclassical style, protecting the original Roman core while restoring its technical functions. This careful renovation has allowed the tower to maintain its authenticity and continue operating to this day, making it a unique site of great historical value, recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site. For more information, visit the UNESCO page.

Climbing its stairs can be challenging, but it’s well worth the effort. Not only will you be traversing a monument that has survived nearly two millennia, but once you reach the top, you’ll be rewarded with spectacular views of the Atlantic and the city of A Coruña, stretching out under a horizon where the sea and urban landscape blend impressively.

Parking in the city center

For our visit to A Coruña other attractions, at first, we tried to find street parking, but without success. We finally headed to the Papagayo parking garage, which we recommend for its central location, good security, and spacious spots between vehicles. It offers easy access and places you right in the heart of the city, making it an ideal starting point for your exploration without any hassle.

Strolling through A Coruña’s city center

Walking through A Coruña’s city center is a delight. The traditional shops, narrow streets, and unique architecture create a charming atmosphere that invites you to explore every corner. Our first stop was the Plaza de Marqués de San Martín, a lovely square dominated by a beautiful cruceiro (stone cross) and the façade of the Church of San Xurxo (Saint George).

Church of San Xurxo (Saint George)

The Church of San Xurxo in A Coruña is a prime example of Galician Baroque, originally designed by Domingo de Andrade and completed with its current façade by Clemente Fernández Sarela around 1766. The Jesuits established themselves in A Coruña in 1673 and began constructing their church in 1725. After their expulsion by King Charles III in 1767, the convent was taken over by the Augustinians, and following the exclaustration of 1836, it became property of the City Council, and the parish of Saint George was moved here shortly after.

The main façade of the church features a central body flanked by twin towers and a large main door, above which sits the niche of the church’s namesake, Saint George, next to an illuminated window. The façade is framed by a double set of Doric columns that house the images of Saint Lucy and Saint Margaret.

In front of the church, in Plaza de Marqués de San Martín, stands a notable cruceiro, adding a traditional Galician element to the surroundings. This cruceiro stands out not only for its height and presence but also for the detailed stone carvings depicting the Stations of the Cross, showcasing scenes from the Passion of Christ.

For more information, visit the Saint George Parish website in A Coruña.

Saint George Church

Plaza de María Pita

The Plaza de María Pita is the historical and cultural heart of A Coruña, surrounded by arcaded buildings and glass galleries that give it a unique character. The square is dedicated to María Pita, the local heroine, and is a pedestrian space that serves as a meeting point for both locals and visitors.

A Coruña City Hall
On one side of the square stands the majestic A Coruña City Hall, an impressive example of eclectic architecture inaugurated in 1918. The building is notable for its arched façade and elaborate decoration, including towers topped with copper domes that dominate the square’s skyline.

Statue of María Pita
In the center of the square stands the statue of María Pita, created by sculptor Xosé Castiñeiras in 1998, honoring this heroine of A Coruña. The statue depicts María Pita holding a pike aloft with a determined expression, capturing the moment when she led the city’s defense against the English forces in 1589. At her feet, a fallen English soldier symbolizes the resistance and triumph of the people of A Coruña.

History of María Pita
María Pita is an iconic historical figure in A Coruña, known for her brave actions during the siege by the English Armada led by Sir Francis Drake in 1589. When the English troops breached the defenses and began to invade the city, María Pita, after witnessing her husband’s death at the hands of the invaders, seized a pike and struck down the English ensign carrying the enemy flag. This act inspired the city’s defenders to fight with renewed determination, ultimately repelling the attack. Her bravery was recognized by King Philip II, who awarded her a pension in recognition of her heroic deeds. María Pita remains immortalized not only in this square and statue but also in the collective memory as a symbol of courage and resistance.

Seaside Promenade

A Coruña’s Seaside Promenade (Paseo Marítimo) is renowned as the longest coastal walkway in a city in Europe, stretching over 13 kilometers along the coastline. This promenade runs parallel to the ocean, offering spectacular views of the Atlantic and connecting iconic landmarks such as the Tower of Hercules and the Castle of San Antón. It’s an ideal place for walking, running, or simply enjoying the sea breeze and panoramic views. The promenade is a true delight, with its modernist street lamps telling the story of the city through decorative details inspired by its maritime heritage and architecture.

La Marina Galleries

The glass galleries of La Marina are one of A Coruña’s most recognizable symbols and have been part of the urban landscape for decades. Originally, these buildings housed fishermen who would even dock their boats under the arcades in front of their homes. The main façade of these buildings faces Plaza de María Pita, while the stunning glass galleries form the back, creating a unique image that has earned A Coruña the nickname "City of Glass." These galleries were designed to protect the buildings from the rain while capturing the warmth of the sun, maintaining a stable indoor temperature at night. This architectural style is characteristic and exclusive to A Coruña, contributing to its distinctive visual identity.

We’ve added renting an apartment here for a month to our bucket list, to fully enjoy this spectacular city and take morning runs along the promenade.

La Marina Galleries

Costa da Morte

Punta Nariga Lighthouse

Faro Punta Nariga

Our first stop in Costa da Morte was the stunning Punta Nariga Lighthouse, a true hidden gem on this wild coastline. Built in 1995 and designed by Galician architect César Portela, the lighthouse stands on a pedestal that resembles the bow of a ship, projecting into the Atlantic. Its modern and elegant structure contrasts with the natural surroundings of rocky formations and steep cliffs, creating a spectacular image that seems to rise directly from the landscape.

The lighthouse is surrounded by an area of great natural beauty, where the deep blue of the Atlantic meets rugged cliffs and rock formations sculpted by wind and sea. Although Punta Nariga is off the main roads and requires a small detour, the combination of the lighthouse's architecture with the environment makes the visit well worth it. It’s the perfect place to experience the solitude and power of the ocean, far from the more crowded tourist routes, offering a raw and natural experience of Costa da Morte.

AC-429 Route and Playa dos Cristales

We continued our journey along the AC-429 route, which hugs the Atlantic coastline and offers spectacular views of the Galician shore. Along this route, we passed through picturesque villages like As Grelas before reaching Laxe, home to the colorful Playa de los Cristales. This beach is famous for its small, shiny glass fragments, polished by the sea over time, which cover the sand and create a natural mosaic of colors under the sun. The glass originally came from waste dumped into the sea, which, over the years, has been transformed into these small glassy jewels thanks to the constant action of the waves and time, turning what was once trash into a unique and surprising attraction.

With its multicolored glass and the deep blue of the sea, the beach is a prime example of how nature, in this case, was able to redeem human errors, turning them into pure beauty. Although it’s not a beach for swimming due to the glass, it’s an ideal spot to take in the scenery and admire the sunset.

Playa de los cristales

The Barnacle Harvest

Along the Costa da Morte, and particularly here in Laxe, barnacle (percebe) harvesting is a traditional activity with great economic and cultural value. Barnacles, considered a delicacy in Galician cuisine, cling to rocks in areas where the waves are strong, and harvesting them is a dangerous task that requires great skill and bravery. The barnacle gatherers, known as "percebeiros," challenge the waves and cliffs to pry these shellfish off the rocks, often in extreme conditions. This is why this Galician seafood delicacy comes at such a high price.

Camariñas

Our final stop was Camariñas, a charming coastal village nestled in a peaceful bay with a picturesque fishing harbor. This small town is known not only for its natural beauty and maritime landscapes but also for its fishing tradition and strong connection to the sea. The fishermen’s houses and boats anchored in the harbor create a quintessential Galician scene, where life revolves around the sea and its bounty.

Camariñas Lacework

Camariñas is internationally famous for its bobbin lace tradition, known as "encaixe de Camariñas." This delicate craft has been practiced by generations of women in the village, who skillfully and patiently weave intricate patterns using bobbins and pillows. Camariñas lace is renowned for its elegance and complexity, and it has been a significant part of the local culture and economy for centuries. Numerous shops in Camariñas sell these lace products, offering a wide variety of options ranging from small decorative details to elaborate creations that reflect the region’s rich artisanal heritage.

Each year, the town hosts the "Mostra do Encaixe de Camariñas," an event that brings together lace makers from across Galicia and around the world, showcasing their skills and keeping this centuries-old tradition alive.

Camariñas' port.

Conclusion

After our stop in Camariñas, we began the return journey to Santiago de Compostela, traveling along picturesque rural roads that cut through the heart of Galicia. We know that in just one day, you can only get a brief introduction to such rich and varied destinations as A Coruña and Costa da Morte, but given the time we had available on our trip, we were more than satisfied with our decision to take this one-day route.

Each stop, from the lighthouses to the coastal villages, left us eager to explore more and uncover the unique details that make this region so special. You can watch our YouTube video featuring the route we’ve described here.