Rias Baixas

Introduction

Today, we will explore the enchanting Rías Baixas in Galicia. The "rías" are coastal inlets formed when the sea floods river valleys, creating spectacular landscapes where the sea and mountains merge. The Rías Baixas, located in the province of Pontevedra, offer a perfect blend of picturesque landscapes, fishing villages, and dreamlike beaches. This one-day itinerary covers the best that this region has to offer.

Ria of Pontevedra from Gaixas Viewpoint.

Our destination today includes the rías of Pontevedra and Arousa, two of the most emblematic in this region. The Ría de Pontevedra is known for its calm waters and rich fishing tradition. Here, you'll find charming villages like Combarro, famous for its horreos (seaside granaries), and Sanxenxo, a popular tourist destination. On the other hand, the Ría de Arousa is renowned for its islands, beaches, and beautiful seaside churches. We will also indulge in the delicious seafood caught in its waters.

One of the advantages of renting a car is that it allows you to explore these areas independently, which would be difficult to do using public transportation.

To follow along on this journey, here’s a map linked to Google Maps that you can use to plan your trip. Just click the link, and you'll be ready to explore the Rías Baixas at your own pace.

When is the Best Time to Visit the Rías Baixas?

Summer (June to August): During the summer, the Rías Baixas become an ideal destination for enjoying the sun and beaches. Average temperatures range between 20°C and 25°C, creating perfect conditions for outdoor activities. However, keep in mind that this is a very busy time due to both domestic and international tourism, so be prepared to deal with crowds, wait times at restaurants, and higher prices.

Spring and Autumn (April, May, and September): If you prefer a quieter atmosphere, consider visiting in the spring or autumn. Temperatures are cooler, around 15°C to 20°C, and there's a higher chance of rain. However, the lower number of tourists makes the experience more relaxed and authentic. We did this itinerary in late April and were fortunate to have an extraordinary day, as you'll notice in the photos on the blog.

Rest of the Year: During the winter months, temperatures can drop, and rain is more frequent, but if you don't mind the weather and are looking for a more authentic, less touristy experience, it can also be an excellent option.

Combarro

Combarro’s horreos.

Our base for this itinerary was Pontevedra. The first stop was the quintessential Galician village, Combarro. Here, you'll also encounter pilgrims on their way to Santiago—a must-see stop on your Galicia itinerary.

It's advisable to arrive early, as parking fills up by midday, or even earlier during peak season. This will allow you to enjoy the village more peacefully and without the crowds.

Combarro is perfect for wandering and getting lost in its charming cobblestone streets. The most frequented street is Rúa do Mar, but I encourage you to also explore the narrow lanes where you'll find gardens, old houses, and the chance to greet the locals.

On Rúa do Mar, you'll see Combarro's distinctive hórreos, which are granaries elevated on pillars. Although there are more than 30,000 hórreos in Galicia, those in Combarro are unique for being right next to the sea. You'll also notice the maritime houses, typical two-story constructions with wooden balconies and facades that face directly onto the water.

Take a break in the small squares and admire the cruceiros, which are stone crosses carved in granite, placed in prominent locations like squares and paths. Most of the cruceiros in Combarro date back to the 18th, 19th, and 20th centuries. Don’t miss the Plaza de la Iglesia de San Roque. The church, with its stone facade and bell tower, is an example of Galician religious architecture. In front of it stands an impressive cruceiro.

Cruceiro with Jesus in the cross on one side and the Virgin Mary on the other.

Combarro is also steeped in the presence of meigas, figures similar to witches in Galician culture. For now, you can observe their figurines in the souvenir shops.

All of this is set against a wonderful backdrop of flower-filled pots, restaurants, and cafes that make Combarro a charming place to stroll and enjoy.

A special note is that Combarro was home to many emigrants who moved to Argentina, including my great-grandfather. This was something several locals mentioned to me upon recognizing my accent. I had the wonderful opportunity to share a coffee with a local from Combarro who expressed his admiration for Argentina, a country that helped Spain in its time of need by sending wheat—a gesture that Galicia remembers with eternal gratitude. He insisted on treating me to the coffee, a beautiful moment that became one of my fondest memories of Galicia.

Mirador de A Granxa

Our next stop is the Mirador de A Granxa, which offers an extraordinary view of the Ría de Pontevedra. Notice the wooden platforms in the sea; these are known as bateas, where mussels, scallops, and oysters are cultivated, hanging from ropes.

The viewpoint also provides a privileged view of Raxó, with its harbor and beaches. In the background, you can see Tambo Island and, on the other side, the municipality of Marín.

Sanxenxo

Our next stop is Sanxenxo, one of the most popular tourist destinations in the Rías Baixas.

Playa de Silgar, located in the heart of Sanxenxo, is an extensive and beautiful beach with fine sand. Along the beach stretches a promenade perfect for a stroll, enjoying an ice cream, or simply observing local life and breathing in the fresh sea breeze. This promenade is lined with cafes, restaurants, and shops, offering a wide variety of options for all tastes.

Zamburriñas

During our visit, we decided to have lunch at the Tritón restaurant, where we enjoyed a delicious feast of zamburiñas (scallops), a local delicacy served grilled with a touch of lemon. We also tried the traditional caldo gallego, a delicious soup made with turnip greens, potatoes, chorizo, and pork. To finish, we indulged in a Galician cheese cake, a creamy and smooth dessert that was the perfect ending to a delicious meal.

Sanxenxo is undoubtedly a place that perfectly combines natural beauty with gastronomic richness. While our experience in April allowed us to enjoy it in a relaxing atmosphere, we can imagine that in summer it would be an ideal destination to spend a few days, enjoying the beach and the vibrant atmosphere.

Bascuas Beach

We left Rúa do Mar in Pontevedra and made a stop at Bascuas Beach (Playa de Bascuas), a beautiful bay facing the Atlantic Ocean that serves as a nudist beach during the summer season. This small beach, approximately 100 meters long and 15 meters wide, is surrounded by cliffs covered in vegetation, giving it a secluded and peaceful atmosphere. Playa de Bascuas is known for its white sand and crystal-clear waters, making it a popular spot among naturists due to its relaxed and natural setting. There is a sign indicating that it is a nudist beach.

Playa de Bascuas.

Ermida de la Lanzada

The Ermida de Nuestra Señora de la Lanzada is a small and simple chapel in the late Romanesque style, built at the end of the 12th century on the remains of an older hermitage.

On the way to the chapel, you'll encounter the remains of a medieval fortress constructed in the 10th century. This fortification was erected by order of Bishop Sisnando II, with the purpose of protecting the lands of Santiago de Compostela from Viking and Muslim incursions.

The fortress played a crucial role in the defense of the region for several centuries. However, it was partially destroyed in the 13th century during the conflicts between Queen Urraca I of León and Archbishop Diego Gelmírez. Later, it suffered further damage in the 15th century during the Irmandiña Revolt, a popular uprising against the Galician feudal and ecclesiastical nobility.

Ermida de la Lanzada

The temple consists of a single nave divided into two sections by a triumphal arch that connects to a semicircular apse. The main facade is very simple, with a lintelled door and a trefoil rose window. On the back facade, you’ll find the apse, which is distinguished by its four attached columns. Inside, the Baroque altarpiece from the 18th century is one of the main attractions, along with the images of Santiago Apóstol and the Virgin of La Lanzada.

The surroundings of the chapel are stunning. Located at one of the westernmost points of the Rías Baixas, it offers spectacular views of the sea and sunsets, considered among the most beautiful in northern Spain. The beach of A Lanzada, stretching over 2.5 kilometers, is one of the most popular sandy beaches in Galicia, frequented by both tourists and surfers.

The chapel is closely linked to ancient fertility rites. According to tradition, the last weekend of August marks the celebration of the Romería de la Virgen de la Lanzada, where women seeking to end their infertility must undergo the ritual of bathing in the nine waves at the beach. This pre-Christian ritual is based on the sea’s healing properties and the influence of the moon. There’s also a custom of sweeping the chapel floor and making floral offerings to break spells and ward off the evil eye, reciting the formula "Meigas fóra" (Witches be gone). Naturally, as good tourists, we followed this ritual.

Ermida de A Toxa

Our next stop is the Ermida de San Caralampio on the Island of A Toxa, which we reached by crossing the picturesque bridge connecting O Grove with the island.

Ermida de A Toxa

The unique church of San Caralampio is distinctive for being covered in scallop shells. Although it wasn’t originally decorated this way when it was built in 1909, the story changed due to a curious event. The continuous rains that battered its walls caused dampness and deteriorated the structure. Raimundo Riesta Calderón, the second Marquis of Riestra, came up with the idea to cover the walls with scallop shells to prevent water from penetrating the interior. The proposal was accepted, and thus, between the 1940s and 1950s, the entire church was covered with these shells, giving it the unique appearance it has today.

This temple is not only a place of religious interest but also an architectural curiosity and a testament to the maritime traditions of the region. The facade of the hermitage faces south and stands out for its simplicity, adorned with thousands of scallop shells, making it unmistakable and a popular spot for tourists.

Ruinas de Santa Mariña in Cambados

The Ruins of Santa Mariña Dozo, located in the town of Cambados, are one of the most emblematic sites in the region. This ancient temple, built in the 15th century and expanded in the 16th century, stands in a state of romantic ruin, with its open-air church setting giving it a special charm. Originally, the church was erected in honor of Santa Mariña, a saint highly revered in Galicia. The structure, in the Gothic maritime style, is noted for its sobriety and elegance.

Santa Mariña Ruins. Cambados

The ruins are surrounded by a cemetery that adds an air of mystery and solemnity to the site. This cemetery, still in use, is composed of old tombs that blend with nature, creating a unique and evocative landscape. The church was declared a Historic-Artistic Monument in 1943, and since then, it has become an important point of interest for visitors to Cambados. Additionally, each year, a famous music festival, the “International Chamber Music Festival,” is held at this site.

Cambados

Our final stop is the town of Cambados, a gem in the heart of the Rías Baixas, known as the "capital of Albariño." Situated on the shores of the Ría de Arousa, Cambados offers stunning sea views that harmonize beautifully with its medieval heritage. This charming coastal town allows visitors to enjoy maritime landscapes and stroll through its cobblestone streets, rich in history and tradition.

Church of Saint Benito. Cambados.

The historic center of Cambados is home to Plaza de Fefiñáns, an iconic location surrounded by the imposing Fefiñáns Palace and the church of Saint Benito (San Bieito). This square is a perfect example of Galician noble architecture and is the heart of the town's social and cultural life. Moreover, Cambados is famous for its production of Albariño wine, one of Spain's most prestigious white wines. Don’t miss the chance to visit some of the numerous local wineries and taste this exquisite wine, known for its freshness and fruity flavor. Unfortunately, the need to drive back to Pontevedra didn’t allow us this luxury. Next time, we'll add one or two nights in Cambados!

If you want to watch this guide in YouTube, here is the video.

Conclusion

We hope this guide helps you plan your trip to Galicia. From the enchanting Rías Baixas and picturesque fishing villages like Combarro to the panoramic views over the rías and the historic beauty of Cambados, Galicia offers a rich variety of experiences that combine nature, culture, and gastronomy.

Feel free to use the comments to add your experiences or if you have any questions. Happy travels, and enjoy your adventure in Galicia!